Mike Chamberlain is the owner of MC2 Home Inspections, which been in business since 2007 with over 5,000 satisfied clients. We recently asked Mike about how to build a reputable home inspection business and his advice on tools to get the job done right. Here’s what he had to say:

How long have you been a home inspector? How did you get started in your career?

I have been inspecting homes since 2007. I got started in this industry by taking my love and knowledge of homes to the next level. I obtained my certifications and license requirements and took off running. I love being able to help people make an educated decision concerning the largest purchase they will most likely ever make.

To what do you attribute the success of your business? What can other home inspector learn from you as far as growing your business and establishing a reputation as a reliable home inspector?

There are three keys to our success: The success of the business first begins by surrounding myself with a great team. I can honestly say that I would not be here today if it were not for my wife and co-owner Melody Chamberlain who handles all of the “behind the scenes” matters which frees me up to focus on inspections, marketing, etc. We also hand select the home inspectors who work for us. We do not just hire anyone with a flashlight, they have to meet our strict criteria as I believe you are only as good as the team you surround yourself with. By taking our time and hiring the right people, I never have to worry. Our guys are the very best in my book and I work hard to keep them happy!

The second key to our success is the fact that we do not market to or solicit Realtors for referrals. This is almost unheard of in this industry and very few home inspection companies have the guts to go out on their own and NOT rely on agent referrals for their business. This gives a much better overall perception of our company as our clients really appreciate the fact that we do not engage in any activity that could be perceived as a conflict of interest.

The third key to our success is by being responsive. This is an industry that does not sleep and real estate never takes a holiday. Being responsive by answering all forms of communication; emails, texts, phone calls and voice mails in a timely fashion. Our response time is typically less than 30 minutes. If home inspectors are not responsive, people will move on to the next guy.

What are the most important lessons you’ve had to learn during your career as a home inspector?

Without question the most important lesson I have learned is to remain humble. With the constant training and education coupled with doing thousands of home inspections it is easy for many guys to start feeling like they have mastered the art of home inspections. Many inspectors come off as being conceited or arrogant. I, for one, have learned to remain humble though as I believe you really haven’t seen it all and most likely never will. This is a job where you continue to learn something new every day

What habits do you wish more home inspectors would develop either in running their business or conducting the inspection itself?

I do wish more home inspectors would focus more on their customer than the realtor involved. Most inspectors are under the assumption that they have to woo the realtor and cater to their every want and desire. That type of mentality is detrimental to the industry and gives a very bad perception of our industry as a whole. Home inspectors should be and NEED to be more concerned with taking care of their customer. After all the customer is writing the check, not the realtor.

How can novice home inspectors improve their training? What are your favorite resources to help them grow their skill sets?

There are many sources available to improve training. Home inspection organizations like InterNACHI and ASHI are a great resource for continuing education.

What areas of the home do you tend to spend extra time studying during a home inspection? Why?

This greatly depends on the age and location of the home. The older homes (1900-1960) tend to have more electrical and foundation issues. Homes in the 90s tend to have more plumbing issues and today’s more modern homes tend to have more exterior grading and siding issues.

What are your favorite home-inspection tools?

My trusty camera (no home inspector should be without one),flashlight and outlet tester.

How has technology changed the way you do your job? Any apps or gadgets you’d recommend to other inspectors?

I do recommend that new home inspectors find a good and understandable report. There are many large companies out there trying to sell their software to home inspectors. Most are very expensive and do not offer the customer a very clear view of the home as they are all filled with disclaimers and confusing color coded or pre-filled comments.

Home inspection customers want things in plain English that they can understand. It is very important to get the right reporting software because that is the final product that many people see and will judge you on.

Other than the reporting software, I do not recommend inspectors playing around with any apps or high tech devices such as thermal imaging as they go beyond the scope of a home inspection as defined by most licensing authorities.

How can home inspectors better educate clients on smart home maintenance?

First, As a home inspector is going through their inspection with the customer, they should be educating the entire way.

Second, it is a good idea to either make up or purchase some home maintenance materials to email to the client along with the home inspection report. This gives the client something tangible to hold on to and refer back to. We always send out about four to five manuals designed to educate the client about how to take care of their home and when to do so.

The inspection report is all customers have once an inspection is over, so getting it right matters. But what’s right, and what is too little or too much? That’s the conundrum a lot of home inspectors face. Since no one can be all things to all people, the answer is somewhere in the middle.

The trick, it seems, is to provide what you can and give access to what you can’t. That serves the customer’s best interest while protecting your own.

Begin With a Summary of Inspection Findings

Considering everything in a house that you’ll inspect, the volume of information in a given report might be overwhelming. If the report is a wall of detailed information, the customer might not know where to begin or which areas to focus on. A summary at the beginning of the report can help offer some context to what follows.

The summary should give customers a brief overview of the home’s condition. But Alan Carson of Carson Dunlap writes for Working RE magazine cautions that it should also include language that encourages the customer to read on. Otherwise, they might rely only on the summary, which puts you at risk of being sued and them at risk for making an uninformed decision.

Point out Specific Defects and Recommend Resolutions

Customers want to know what’s broken or ready to break, when it might fail and how much it will cost to replace or repair. This is where you can enumerate the defects that you find and elaborate on them. The body of the report allows you to explain where defects are located, provide clear photos and, if permitted, offer a bit of advice on which steps to take next.

Some inspectors also recommend repair/replace contractors. Reuben Saltzman of StructureTech home inspectors believes it’s a good idea. But because recommendations can appear as a conflict of interest, some inspectors avoid them. For example, customers might question the validity of a defect that drives business to the inspector’s friend or peer.

Direct Customers to Additional Reference Material

Perhaps the biggest issue with report writing is covering all the bases without writing War and Peace. Every house has numerous points to cover. But when presented with too much information, what’s really important might become blurred. Links or access to reference material can help.

With access to relevant articles about certain home defects, industry definitions, and other reference material, customers can read a clean report and find additional information if they need it. Carson explains that this eliminates the “long narratives” that might uninteresting to some.

Concise and meaningful reports take some finesse and a bit of experience. Even great reporting software needs a little help from the inspector on the front end. Here’s what Carson recommends:

Use plain language and skip technical jargon, and check your spelling. Eliminate confusing terms such as “satisfactory, acceptable and adequate.” Avoid guessing. Find out or clearly explain that the answer is unknown and why. Limit “further evaluation” recommendations. Some homes might need a host of specialists such as roof inspectors. But too many recommendations might foster suspicion. Explain your scope of work in terms of industry standards. For example, a home inspection doesn’t typically include air quality or radon. Use the report to support and mirror your conversations with the customer. If the report contains much more (or less) information, the customer will likely become frustrated and concerned. Clarify your findings. If the water heater is only 30 gallons for a 5-bedroom house, explain the implications. Use caution when referring to code. It’s confusing, and the house was probably built to meet code at that time. Instead, point out dangers. Carson gives the example of a low staircase railing, which is common in older homes. Code isn’t an issue, and won’t be unless the railing is replaced. But safety is.

The whole purpose of a home inspection report is to provide customers with information so they can make an informed decision. But sometimes, the details get in the way. Often, those details revolve around inspector liability. And that can lead to overwhelming reports that nobody reads.

Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems (EIFS) seemed like a great idea, but something didn’t work out as well as was expected. “It’s complicated,” says ASHI Reporter. There isn’t just one EIFS system, and there’s no single way to install it. Likewise, there are numerous methods for evaluating the integrity of this common exterior wall cladding.

EIFS layering can differ from one home builder to the next. How Synthetic Stucco Differs From the Real Thing

Originating in Europe and making its way to the U.S. in the 1960s, synthetic stucco made real headway in the 1990s. This system of cladding was originally used only on masonry walls. But in time, its use broadened wood frame construction as well.

Because it’s an inexpensive system, builders, and home improvement companies switched to synthetic because of its impressive ability to insulate and its “architectural flexibility,” says ASHI. But whether it’s less expensive than real stucco depends on your contractor. Home Advisor asserts that EIFS is more expensive than the real thing.

Most synthetic stucco installations consist of sheathing such as plywood, a water-resistant barrier, insulating foam board, a base coat of the stucco material, and then a finish coat of acrylic on top. But the layering order, as well as the types of layers, can vary. Authentic stucco has no underlying insulation but does have felt paper, wire mesh, a base coat of Portland cement, or metal lath and a cement layer on top.

Where EIFS Went Wrong

Two of the biggest attractors of EIFS were its insulating power and its flexibility. Real stucco doesn’t insulate as well as EIFS. And installers could apply an EIFS system over intricate details, unlike authentic stucco. It’s a watertight system, which sounds like a good idea. But it’s only a good idea in a perfect world.

Problems started creeping up in the southeast but ultimately spread around the country. Water infiltration caused the wood framework to rot, says ASHI. What’s worse is that the damage didn’t take a decade or more to emerge, sometimes it happened within the first year or two.

EIFS keeps water out, but it also holds water in. “It’s a little bit like putting a building in a plastic bag,” says ASHI. EIFS is not breathable. And anywhere the watertight seal was compromised, such as around windows and doors or where a light fixture was installed, water had an entry point. But unfortunately, it didn’t have a way back out. Real stucco absorbs water and lets it drain away.

ASHI identifies certainly “problem areas” that inspectors should always investigate. Those include the windows and doors already mentioned, every penetration through the stucco (plumbing, electrical, etc.), along roof flashing, fancy architectural details and everywhere EIFS runs below grade.

The simplest way to know whether you’re dealing with EIFS and not stucco is the knock test. EIFS sounds more hollow and it’s got a softer, almost flexible feel. Conversely, stucco produces a hard tap sound and has a rigid feel that doesn’t “give.”

Water infiltration with EIFS can clue you in on substantial and costly structural problems. When reported, customers should be advised to hire a pro in EIFS installation and repair. That’s the safest way to gauge the scope of damage and get an accurate quote for restoring the home.

All that it takes is a look at the news to see how easy it is for drone pilots to get in trouble with the law. When these mini aerial vehicles, known as unmanned aircraft systems (UAS), first hit the scene in a big way a few years ago, the possibilities seemed endless.

Some people now believe that UAS package delivery isn’t far off. Drones are frequently used to photograph real estate, too. Their ability to go where people don’t go and bring back images that would otherwise be difficult or impossible makes them perfect for the Home Inspection industry.

But with all of the excitement, the FAA had a real problem. Popularity was immense, and it remains so. And so is the risk of injury, property damage and privacy issues with drones in the wrong hands. But finally, new FAA drone regulations for commercial use were released in June. If you are itching to try a UAS on the job, here’s what you need to know.

Drones are Expensive, Highly Technical Equipment

A UAS might seem almost like a toy, but they are anything except cheap. At least that’s the case with drones that are durable and dependable enough to use in home inspection work. One false move and hundreds or even thousands of dollars worth of equipment might be obliterated in one mishap.

Drones can create a lot of havoc if the pilot isn’t experienced. And sometimes an epic crash results, no matter how much experience the pilot has. It happens all the time.

The FAA Requires Certification

Although you could, at least in theory, buy a drone online and take it to work the next day, the FAA has something to say about it. To be legal, the remote pilot in command of the UAS must be certified or under the direct supervision of someone who is.

Pilot certification requires a demonstration of aeronautical knowledge through either FAA testing or possessing a Part 61 pilot certificate and completing the FAA online training course. You must also be vetted by TSA and be at least 16.

Safe Operation is an Emerging Discipline

As drone technology becomes more prevalent and popular, more issues with the safe handling and operation of UASs will become apparent. For now, the FAA uses a commonsense approach. Be safe and don’t take unnecessary risks with people or property. That appears to be the general rule. Here are some of the finer points:

No operation directly above unprotected people No operation inside a covered stationary vehicle Only fly during daylight, or during twilight with proper anti-collision lights Don’t operate a drone from a moving aircraft Don’t fly it where you can’t see it Don’t be reckless Always perform a pre-flight inspection Only carry a load that the UAS is rated to handle

Basically, don’t take the drone into an area where could harm people, damage property or is likely to crash.

Privacy is a Big Deal

One big issue with drones is the invasion of privacy. As a home inspector, that shouldn’t be a chronic problem. But you never know, and you can’t be too careful. If the drone you’re piloting and its camera come too close to a neighboring property, the owner might take issue.

The National Telecommunications and information Administration (NTIA) makes the following suggestions, which are voluntary.

Let anyone in the vicinity know that you’ll be piloting a drone with a camera and that their image might be captured on video. Never deliberately take video or pictures of anyone without their permission. Don’t fly over someone else’s private property. Only gather personal data if it’s necessary for the job, and discard it as soon as you can. If some data must be kept, keep it secure. Delete data, photos or video if the subject of the images and data asks you to. Be reasonable in discussing privacy and safety concerns with others. Don’t harass anyone with the drone. It’s also a good idea not to harass animals.

Drone technology is very likely here to stay. With it will eventually come more improvements in the aircraft and the rules governing use.

UASs are a perfect match for the home inspection industry because they enable visual inspection of areas, such as roofs, that can’t be reached or can’t be reached safely. That’s why ICA School has introduced a new drone module specifically for using drones in roof inspections. You should check it out.

Home inspectors might never swing a hammer or use a circular saw on the job, but that doesn’t mean their tool bags are empty. Inspection tools range from simple and inexpensive to sophisticated and quite pricey. But as for the basics, you can build out a complete toolkit to get started in the industry for around $200.

Here are some of the basics that you’ll use nearly every day:

#1: Electrical Tester

This is one tool that you’ll use over and over again. There are different grades and different price points. Considering how often you’ll pull it from your bag or pocket, it pays to invest in a good quality model.

The simplest of electrical testers have a similar look as a household 3-prong plug adapter. They pop into an outlet and give insight into some of the most common electrical defects. However, they don’t work on 220 outlets. A step up is the AFCI/GFCI tester. They’re much larger and reveal more defects. With a simple model, you’ll learn whether the outlet is functioning. With an ACFI/GFCI tester, you’ll learn whether there’s a defect with arc fault or ground fault circuit interrupter function.

Basic testers cost around $20. If you want to upgrade to something larger, more comprehensive and sturdier, expect to pay about $150.

#2: Basic Voltage Tester

Basic voltage testers have one job, and they’re one of the simplest and least expensive tools in a home inspector’s toolkit. Shaped like an ink pen, the tip fits into the outlet and the device reacts (or not) to the voltage that’s present. If the outlet is hot, the tester reacts with a light, sound or both.

There’s a drawback to this little tool. Its accuracy depends on using it exactly the right way and having fresh batteries. If the tip doesn’t fit into the outlet properly, it can give a false negative reading on a hot outlet. And if the batteries are weak or dead, the same applies. Another possible issue is a false hot. While not as common, static electricity can produce a reading that indicates the outlet is live when it’s not.

Voltage testers can be had for under $20. The upside is convenience and cost. You can tuck one into your shirt pocket, and if it breaks it’s not expensive to replace. The downside is the lack of consistent accuracy.

#3: Upgraded Voltage Tester

Although most home inspectors carry a basic voltage tester, many also invest in a more sophisticated model. Most detect a range between 120 and 600 volts. You need this tool in your kit to test receptacles for clothes dryers, kitchen ranges and other large appliances.

Lower-end testers have two wires with a probe at the end of each. The wires are connected to a handheld device that gives a voltage reading. Plug-in testers are also popular, but they’re not quite as versatile because they limit you to only testing outlets.

This tool does the job of a basic voltage tester and then some, but most inspectors still own both. That’s likely because the basic tester is so convenient to carry and use. You’ll need an upgraded model for some receptacles and devices. But because the basic model is so small and lightweight, you might use it much more often.

#4: Flashlights

You never know what you’ll encounter from one home inspection to the next. Attics are notoriously dark. So are crawlspaces. And some homes might have fixtures with missing light bulbs and dark hallways and corners. That’s why you need a minimum of one good flashlight, probably more.

Flashlights can cost as little as a few dollars or as much as a few hundred. Some have a basic plastic housing and some are entirely waterproof. That could come in handy in a flooded basement. Newer LED flashlights tend to last longer and burn brighter, too.

You might want a range of sizes. For example, a thin, pen-style flashlight can peek into tight areas such as behind a kitchen range. And a big, hefty one can light up most of a large attic.

Many new home inspectors worry about business startup costs. Because tools aren’t often cheap, the expense of filling a toolkit is a natural concern. But many people already have at least some of the required basic tools. And others don’t usually cost a fortune.

Your toolkit will probably evolve and improve over time. For example, you might one day invest the thousands of dollars that it takes to buy a thermal imaging camera. But tools like that are by no means essential. They make the job easier and let you offer a more comprehensive service, but you can still offer a complete home inspection without them.